« Caotina Noir for cold, DARK winter days | Main | So you want to be a chocolate snob (part 2) »
February 21, 2006
A trio of 100% chocolates
Cold winter days have a way of dampening chocolate taste buds, so it is all the more appropriate to arise from winter hiberation in real style. On deck are three different chocolate bars from three different countries, but with one vital quality in common: massive amounts of cocoa solids. In fact, all three bars are pure or very close to pure dark chocolate. To be fair, one bar contains a mere 99% cocao solids, but that is close enough for a mid-winter degustation. Here are the darkest of the dark:
Domori (100%) -- Around one year ago, Italian-made Domori chocolates took Zürich by storm, riding growing popular appreciation for dark chocolate and accompanied by a well-timed review in the Swiss publication Das Magazin. It was not long ago that dark chocolate was pretty much second class to milk chocolate in Switzerland, especially in the German speaking regions, so it is all the more impressive to see a 100% chocolate achieve such popularity.
With the very first bite, it becomes obvious that Domori 100% is defined not by its flavor, but rather by its amazing consistency. The chocolate is unbelievably fine, leaving the senses astounded by the smooth feel and momentarily oblivious to the actual taste. Eventually the bitterness of high cocao content makes itself known, but this is compensated by pleasant tastes of nuts, fruit, and wood. These aromas linger around well after the bar has been consumed and are a real treat, perhaps even more so than the actual act of eating the chocolate.
Cocao beans:
Chocolat Bonnat (100%) -- This French chocolate comes from the house of Stéphane Bonnat, the 4th generation in a family-run business. The company produced its first chocolates in 1884 and achieved international fame by accompanying the French colonizers around the globe in a by-gone imperial era.
Bonnat is the most acidic and bitter of the three chocolates. The chocolate's smooth and velvety melt is a mark of quality, but this feature alone cannot make up for the harsh, burnt overtones that overwhelm the senses and leave the mouth dry. Bonnat 100% is a suitable chocolate bar for legionnaires in the desert.
Cocao beans:
Teuscher Chocolate 99 (99%) -- It is delightful to have a Swiss chocolate join the dark trio, although finding a pure 100% dark chocolate from Switzerland is no easy feat. Teuscher produces a line of numbered chocolates with progressively more cocao solids. Teuscher Chocolate 99 came closest to pure dark with 99% cacao solids and 1% fructose.
Both the Domori 100 and Teuscher 99 share a genuinely divine melt, however, Teuscher 99's flavor is much more present than the subtle Domori 100. The chocolate's flavor evolves from a bland cardboard taste to (thankfully) more pleasant dried fruits and berries (perhaps rasberries). Thanks perhaps to the 1% fructose, Teuscher 99 is less bitter than the 100% bars, however, this chocolate is still high cocao and by no means sweet.
Cocao beans:
Pure and near-pure cocao solid chocolates are a special breed in the chocolate world. Even the most zealous dark chocolate lover may be challenged by the bitterness of high cocao content. It is a challenge worth accepting, since these chocolates have a beguiling way of growing on you. Before you know it, you will be craving their bitter, dark allures.
Last updated on February 21, 2006 7:53 PM
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